Cat and Kitten Care

We recommend you keep your new cat inside for seven to ten days with a litter tray. This is so that your house will become his or her new territory.

Kittens should be kept inside for ten to fourteen days with a litter tray. This is so they can adjust to their new environment and increase in weight.

Obligations to care for your animals

As the person in charge, you are legally required to provide the following:

• Proper and sufficient food and water

• Adequate shelter

• The opportunity to display normal patterns of behaviour

• Protection from and rapid diagnosis of any significant injury or distress

Identification of your pet

It is a good idea for you new cat to wear a collar and identification tag. They can’t tell someone if they are lost.

Toxoplasmosis

Toxoplasmosis is a parasite found in rats, mice, pigs, cows, sheep, chickens and birds. It may be transmitted to humans by handling contaminated meat, cat litter or soil.

Symptoms may include cold-like symptoms and it may last between one to twelve weeks with little to no lasting effects on most people. However, if a pregnant woman gets the disease, it can be transmitted to the foetus causing possible brain or eye defects.

Solutions:

• Don’t get rid of your cat.
  
  
• If you are pregnant, have someone else to change the litter tray for the duration of the pregnancy.
  
  
• If that’s not possible, use gloves when handling the litter.
  
  
• Remove faeces every time you change the litter. The faecal matter is not contagious for the first 24 hours.
  
  

Talk with you doctor about how you can protect yourself from this disease.

Transporting your pet

Cats should always be transported in a carry cage in the car. It is safer for you and the cat.

Introducing a new pet to an existing pet

The first introduction should take place when you have 2-3 days off. Your presence reassures your original pets and enables you to supervise the animals. Don’t leave them alone until you are confident that they are comfortable with each other.

Be patient, it could take a day or many weeks for the animals to get aquatinted. Cats and dogs live in a “pecking order”. That’s what this acquaintance period is for. There may be a few scuffles; growling and hissing is perfectly normal. Don’t worry unless the fighting appears to be serious and does not diminish over time.

Resident cat meets new cat

1. Introducing two kittens to each other or a kitten to an older cat is easy, but adult cats are every bit as territorial as dogs and the introduction of a new adult of the same size, sex or temperament can be a delicate diplomatic matter. To aid the peace process:
   
   
   • Place the carrier containing your new cat in a quiet corner or end room of the house and keep the carrier closed for the first hour or so. Then open the carrier. Put a litter box and bowls of water and food nearby and change the food, water and litter daily. Ask everyone, especially children, to keep things quiet and low-key at first.
     
     
   • Keep the new cat in its room for a few days before leaving the door open. The newcomer and resident cats can adjust to each other’s smells before meeting face to face and the new cat will start out with its own little piece of territory. Don’t be surprised if the new cat stays in its room or under a bed for several days. Adult cats need to feel confident before they delve into new territory from the safety of the carrier and room. The new cat can explore with confidence and can retreat there if any disagreement with the resident cat should arise.
     
     
   • Some cats crave attention after being confined, but others just want to be left alone. Give the cat a choice. Try to make friends by holding treats out to it, but do not insist. Instead, let the cat approach you – and explore the rest of the house – at its own pace. And before giving the new cat the run of the house, be sure that windows are blocked off with screens and that doors to the outside, basement etc are shut. Block off spaces behind appliances too.

Resident dog meets new cat

Any combination of young and adult animals will quickly work out well. Follow the steps outlined above for bringing a new feline into your home and do your best to prevent jealousy on the part of the dog.

Whereas cats are more independent creatures, dogs are closely attuned to the social structure in the home so pay special attention to the dog.

You can find out how ready the dog is for the presence of the cat by setting down the closed cat carrier with her inside. Let the dog sniff the carrier. If the dog is merely curious (not making aggressive noises), you can speed up the “let’s be friends” process. Hold the cat on your lap (assuming that he/she is not excitable or fearful) while another person brings the dog (on a leash) close enough to sniff. If this meeting is peaceful, reward both pets with praise and petting. If the dog growls or wants to lunge at the cat, growl at the dog strongly and take it out of the room (these exercises are for the safety of the dog as well as the cat, since a canine who doesn't know the power of felines may be in for a rude surprise if the cat gets angry). In general, whenever the two animals meet quietly, encourage their behaviour with profuse praise.

Whatever combination of animals you introduce, remember to give your pets plenty of time to work things out for themselves. Domestic animals are wonderfully adaptable and reliant and a smooth introduction virtually guarantees your pets will be great pals all their lives.

Nutrition

What you feed will have an effect on the way your cat feels, his energy levels, the way he grows and his overall health so it is very important he is fed correctly.

General rules for feeding cats & kittens:

• ALWAYS have fresh, clean water available.
  
  
• Introduce any new food to your pet gradually over a week to avoid stomach upsets.
  
  
• Kittens and cats do not need to be fed milk – in fact it will usually cause stomach upsets. If you would like to give your cat milk, buy Whiskas Milk Plus from the supermarket (this has had the lactose removed and should not cause upset stomachs.)
  
  
• Buy the best quality cat food you can afford, but the food MUST include the words “complete and balanced” on the label or it will not supply everything your cat needs. Also look for the words “AAFCO Tested” on the label. This is an assurance that, again, the food supplies all your pet needs.
  
  
• Do not feed your cat dog food. They have different nutritional needs than dogs, and feeding them just dog food can make them sick or even kill them.
  
  
• Raw meat such as gravy beef or plain cooked chicken or fish must not take up more than one third of your cat’s diet.
  
  
• Cats should not be fed bones. They can get stuck in the gut and cause a lot of problems. However, RAW chicken necks are a good treat for cats, which can help keep their teeth clean and gums healthy. Your pet may be fed these once a week.
  
  
• Steer clear of vitamins and calcium supplements, as long as your cat or kitten is being fed good quality food it does not need these, and they may actually cause the cat harm.
  
  
• Too much fish or liver in the diet can be harmful to your cat or kitten, so try to feed these only as a treat every couple of weeks if desired.
  
  
• Keep a record of the weight of your pet as it grows and as an adult, ask your vet to advise you on your pet's ideal bodyweight.

What should I feed my kitten

Correct feeding of the young kitten is vitally important, as it is at this stage that bones and joints are growing and forming.

All kittens should be fed a commercial “kitten” or “growth” formula cat food. The best of these diets are available from vet clinics and pet shops including theSPCA shop. Some good brands to look for are Eukanuba, Whiskas Advance, Iams, Hills and Proplan. These diets may seem expensive at first glance, but do not work out much more expensive on a daily basis, due to the smaller amount the kitten will need of these premium foods. Both dry and canned kitten foods are fine for kittens.

Again steer clear of vitamins and supplements for kittens, especially calcium supplements – too much calcium during growth can be very harmful to bones and joints.

What should I feed my cat?

Read through the general rules for feeding cats and kittens above, as these will help answer this question.

A cat over 12 months of age should be fed a cat or maintenance formula food which is complete and balanced as at least 2 thirds of its daily diet. If desired, the other one third can be made up of fresh meat, fish or boiled chicken.

Older cats need special feeding also – they should be fed “senior” or “geriatric” cat diets.

Number of meals per day for your cat

How much & how often?

How much you feed your cat at each meal will vary. Kittens need to be fed small meals often, whereas cats get a bigger meal.

Carefully read the packaging of your food to get an idea of how much to feed, as it will vary with the type of food.

Vaccination

If your cat has been with us long enough it will have received the full course of vaccinations. Please check your vaccination record to see where your cat or kitten is up to with vaccinations. A visit to your local vet may be necessary to complete the courses. It is important that vaccinations are given at correct times to maximise their effect.

What diseases are cats vaccinated against?

The vaccine we use for cats at the SPCA protects the cat against three serious diseases:

• Cat Flu or “Snuffles”: snuffles is a respiratory disease of cats similar to the common cold or flu in people. Vaccination will help to protect the cat against snuffles, which otherwise can be very unpleasant for the cat.
  
  
• Chlamydiosis: this is a disease of cats causing conjunctivitis.
  
  
• Panleucopaenia: is a viral disease of cats causing very severe vomiting and diarrhoea, which can even be fatal. It is an important disease for your cat to be protected against.
  

There are two other vaccines cats can receive in New Zealand. One is against Feline Leukaemia Virus. This disease is fairly uncommon in New Zealand, and so it is up to you whether you would like to consider having your cat vaccinated against it. The other is against Chlamydia, which is another cause of flu type symptoms in cats.

Discuss these with your veterinarian if you would like more information.

When should my cat be vaccinated?

All cats should receive an initial course of vaccinations as a kitten (or as an adult cat if they missed out). After this, your cat will need a booster shot every year to keep its immunity.

There are some boarding catteries in the Auckland area that ask that your cat has received a vaccination 6 months or less before it enters the cattery. You need to discuss this with the cattery that you choose.

Worming

>>Why do I need to worm my cat?

There are several types of worms that cats can get. The worms live in the gut of the cat, feeding off their food and also sometimes from the blood of the cat. They can cause the animal to feel tired, to have a dull coat and pot-bellied appearance, and often to become thin. In young animals with severe cases of worms, they may become anaemic and very ill.

>>When should I worm my cat?

As with most things, prevention is better than a cure, so you should follow a good worming plan through your cat’s life, rather than wait until they become sick.

As a general rule, kittens should be wormed every three weeks until they are 6 months of age. After 6 months of age cats should be wormed every three months for the rest of their lives.

>>What should I use to worm my cat?

There are a large number of worming products available for cats. Unfortunately they are not all created equal. Many worming tablets do not kill all the different types of worms cats can get. This is especially true of most brands you can buy from the supermarket.

At the SPCA we use “Drontal Allwormer” for our cats, which is an excellent product, however, there are several others available. Your vet will be able to advise you on this, and will be able to sell you good worming tablets without a consultation. We sell these products at the SPCA Village Shop.

Flea Treatment & Prevention

Although many pet owners do not see fleas as a serious problem, they can cause your animal severe discomfort, as they are intensely itchy and uncomfortable for the pet. In addition to this, a lot of fleas can make an animal become anaemic, and there are some animals that are allergic to the flea’s bite and can have an allergic skin reaction.

In Auckland, because of our warm, humid climate, fleas are often a problem for pets throughout the whole year. This means that pet owners often need to use a flea treatment product year round.

>>How do I tell if my pet has fleas?

• The pet may be itching and scratching at itself a lot.
  
  
• You may be able to see the fleas in the pet’s coat by parting the hair and looking carefully.
  
  
• You may see “flea dirt” in the pet’s coat. This is the flea’s excrement, and it looks a little like ground coffee – small, black crumbly material.

>>How do I get rid of fleas?

There are several products on the market to treat fleas, and they vary greatly in their effectiveness.

• Revolution: is a new product that is available to protect cats against fleas and roundworms. It is a world first in parasite control for cats and gives cat owners the ability to control both internal and external parasites with one easy topical application, once a month.
  
  Revolution provides broad protection against internal and external parasites including roundworm and ear mites, as well as adult fleas, eggs, larvae and flea allergy dermatitis. Once applied to the skin it is rapidly absorbed and distributed throughout the body within the blood stream to protect against both internal and external parasites.
  
  Until the development of Revolution, the only roundworm control option available was either a paste or pill, both of which can be difficult for many cat owners to administer.
  

• ‘Advantage’ and ‘Frontline’: We would recommend one of these two products as the best and safest way to control fleas on your pet. They are both safe, easy to apply, and kill 100% of the fleas on your pet for 4 to 8 weeks after each application (depending on the product). Both these products are available from most veterinary clinics and from the SPCA Village Shop.
  

• Flea Bombs: are used to fumigate your house to kill fleas and flea eggs living in the carpet. They are not intended as the sole method of flea control, but are useful if you are having a serious flea problem in your house. They are available from supermarkets, vets and pet stores.

Your veterinarian will be able to give you advice on the best flea treatment for your pet.

When Your Pet Is Sick or Injured

If at any point you are concerned about the health or well-being of your pet, contact your local veterinarian.

All animals should see their vet for a check-up once a year. This generally can be done at the time of the annual vaccination, and is important so that any health problems can be detected early.

Where all care has been taken to ensure the health of adopted animals; there is always the possibility of a disease in incubation that will not manifest itself until after adoption.

If you adopt an animal from the Auckland SPCA you will automatically benefit from a free 14 day health insurance cover with the SPCA Pet Protection Plan from Beneficial Insurance Limited, enabling you relax, secure in the knowledge that should any problems occur your pet is covered to a maximum of $50 (excluding accidents).

You must contact our Veterinary Clinic for advice first, they will then advise you what to do.

Signs your pet may be unwell

>>Sneezing

In cats this is commonly a sign of “cat flu” or “snuffles”. Snuffles is a disease of the upper respiratory tract (the throat and windpipe).

Because the disease is viral, and there are no animal medications that kill viruses, recovery involves the cat’s immune system clearing the disease from the body (in this way, the disease is very similar to a common cold or the flu in people). It may take one to two weeks for complete recovery.

NEVER give an animal human medicine such as Panadol or Aspirin, as these may harm or even kill the pet.

Cat Behaviour

There will always come a point in a cat owner’s life when he or she wonders. ‘Now, why does my cat behave like this?’ Cats are fairly complicated animals with a large range of behavioural patterns and a whole secret language of their own. In many respects, the domesticated cat, especially the non-pedigree, is still a wild animal sharing our homes. Most of its behavioural patterns can be traced back to when it really was wild.

Scratching furniture

Almost all indoor cats do this, particularly if they have not been introduced to a scratching post at an early enough age. The cat is simply sharpening its claws by stripping off an old sheath of claw to reveal a new, sharp one underneath. It is also a means of exercising its claws and paws, and of scent-marking; there are scent glands under its front paws. In a multi-cat household it will be the most dominant cats that are seen to scratch furniture, even if a scratching-post is present, the subordinates sticking to the scratching post. It can be difficult to overcome this problem. The best way to over come this is to buy furniture that is as cat resistant as possible.

As mentioned earlier, if an interesting scratching post (preferably impregnated with catnip) is purchased at the same time as the kitten or cat, the likelihood is that the cat will prefer this to any furniture. If not, one way of trying to dissuade the cat is to spray it from afar with a water pistol or spray bottle whenever the offending behaviour takes place. Shouting at the cat or punishing it in any other way has little or no effect. The advantage of the water pistol (and only ever use clean water) is that the jet hits the cat silently and unexpectedly; it will not suspect you, as you will be a distance away.

Spraying

This habit, usually associated with sexual behaviour in non-desexed male and female cats, can also be seen in desexed males and occasionally females. The spraying of urine is a normal and frequent act among entire males and cats that are allowed outside. It is a way of scent-marking the cat’s territory. The cat will direct a small amount of urine, sometimes only a few drops, backwards against any vertical object, such as a tree or fence outdoors, or a cupboard or wall indoors. Spraying is always done when the cat is standing upright.

The urine used is very concentrated and smells much stronger than ordinary urine. Unfortunately, as only a small amount is emitted, it can be very difficult to find a spray ‘site’ indoors; the smell is very evident but no wet patch can be found.

Normally a cat will have no need to spray indoors, as the house is the cat’s accepted den, so no further enforcement is necessary. However, spraying may occur if the cat feels insecure or threatened in any way; for instance, because of the arrival of a new pet or a baby in the household or any other change in family circumstances, a house move or an increased challenge from a cat outdoors. Areas to be sprayed may include front doors and door mats if the owner’s shoes have brought in alien smells, such as the scent of another, strange cat. Oriental breeds, especially Siamese, very often spray, and in these cases it may simply be because they feel frustrated or want more attention. The same behaviour can sometimes be seen in Siamese crossbreeds.

It is difficult to overcome the problem of spraying, but it can be done. Firstly, thoroughly clean all the areas that have been sprayed, preferably with a disinfectant intended for the purpose, as many household detergents smell of ammonia, which will only attract the cat’s attention. If an area smells of sprayed urine, it will often encourage the cat to use it again, or other cats to spray on top of it.

Secondly, place small amounts of dry cat food in each of these areas, as cats are reluctant to soil the place where they eat. If the food is eaten quickly and then spraying takes place afterwards, it may be worth trying to glue some pieces of dry food to a bowl, making it impossible for the cat to remove it.

If it is felt that the cat strays because of an outside threat, such as the neighbour’s vicious tom, boarding up any cat flaps in the house may be enough to reassure the cat that the house is its den and therefore secure.

Never punish a spraying cat; this only has the effect of increasing the cat’s insecurity. Cats that spray as a form of protest should be ignored except when their owners decide to give them attention; they should be cuddled, stroked and fed when the owner says so, and not receive any attention when they try to settle down on the owner’s lap or ask for food. This reinforces the fact that the owner is dominant over the cat.

A bad sprayer can be confined to one room only, preferably a warm room where it can sleep next to a source of heat such as a radiator. The cat will probably feel secure in this room and so will not spray. If spraying ceases, the cat can be allowed access to the other rooms in the house one by one, under careful supervision. It is a good idea to put food down here and there to dissuade spraying.

Soiling

Occasionally you may come across a cat that soils in places other than its litter tray. It will often do this where the smell of its owner is especially strong, such as on beds. It may occur when the owner is away on holiday and somebody else is looking after the cat in the owner’s house.

There can be numerous reasons for cats soiling the house. Cats do not like to soil near to where they sleep or eat, so it may be just that the litter tray is wrongly positioned. Cats are very clean animals; they do not like to use dirty litter trays, so may go elsewhere if they feel the tray is dirty. Perhaps they do not like that particular brand of cat litter, so trying a different one may be worthwhile. Other cats want total privacy, and the litter tray may be placed in too public an area of the house. Always place the litter tray in a quiet corner and, if possible, use a hooded one.

Again, never punish a cat that soils outside its litter tray; this will only make the cat feel insecure and so make matters worse. Clean up any soiled areas thoroughly and place food in any such areas as you would for spraying. It may also be worth trying to prevent access to the favoured areas. Another good trick is to make the soiling areas unattractive to the cat by placing a plastic sheet over a bed that is being soiled, or some aluminium foil on an area on the floor. Cats do not like the feel of these under their feet.

Why Spay/Neuter?

Unaltered cats are more likely to roam, get lost, stolen, injured or killed. Both male and female cats will spray. Male cats will fight and be more aggressive to people.

Altered cats make nicer pets. They become more child-like in their behaviour and are not driven by hormones to reproduce and protect territory.

The statement that female cats should have one litter before being altered because it makes them calmer, nicer pets is just a myth. The fact of the matter is that having a litter doesn't always produce a calm pet, but spaying will produce a calm pet whether or not reproduction has taken place.

In nature, the weak, sick and old do not survive - nature’s way of controlling its population. Vet care provides our pets with longer lives than they would experience 'in nature'. By domesticating animals we have taken away nature’s population controls. Failing to have pets altered is failing to substitute our own population control. The result is millions of homeless dogs and cats being euthanased every year.

It is for these reasons that the SPCA will not adopt out entire cats, or will provide desexing vouchers for your kitten.

Caring for felines

The statement that female cats should have one litter before being altered because it makes them calmer, nicer pets is just a myth. The fact of the matter is that having a litter doesn't always produce a calm pet, but spaying will produce a calm pet whether or not reproduction has taken place.

If you need to find your local Veterinary Clinic, you can usePfizer's Vet Findservice.